Current Theories on Glue?

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Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 10:36 pm

Current Theories on Glue?

Post by Jamespio »

Howdy folks, I'm an occasional rodmaker. I've done a lot of repairs and rebuilds, and built two rods from scratch.

I work a lot, have a family, try to fish, hunt, raft, etc., etc. As a result, I typically take a couple of years or more to completely build a rod. I'm currently copying a Cattanach taper, have two sections tapered, the tip is shaped but not tapered, but I've been having more shop time than usual lately, so I thought I'd revisit the question of glue.

I am NOT a traditionalist, and I find no aesthetic joy in purple glue lines. I find asthetic joy in seeing no visible glue line at all. My previous rods were built with alyphatic resin glues (Titebond Excel is what I vaguely remember using, and I've had no separations or delaminations over the course of 8 years of use. In addition, the dried glue is a darn close match to blond bamboo, so no visible glue lines.

The new rod is lightly striped, and I'm still toying with the idea of an overall browntone. One of the weaknesses ofmy rodbuilding gear and techniques is poor heat treating, and browning the rod interests me as a treatment. So, the alyphatic glue would show up as yellow glue lines if I go that route. But I'm also just interested in what other folks are using that's relatively easy to work with and gives good results.

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Re: Current Theories on Glue?

Post by catskilljohn »

I use waterproof Titebond wood glue, and although a few people have told me to avoid wood glues and stick with modern epoxies, I have had good luck with it. Glue lines I feel are more of a dull plane/bad strip situation, it has been my [limited] experience that when you get those strips right, you cant find a glue line. They show right up when you dont have a node area prepped right though :lol:

I heard a few builders are using 62* planing forms now, to help eliminate the transition from strip to strip.

One of my Titebond hate'n buddys squeezed out a small puddle of Titebond on his work bench a week before my visit, he wanted to show me something. When I got there, he picked it up and handed it to me, and dog-gone if it wasn't hard yet, still pliable after 1 week of summer air. He said this is what the inside of my rods are still like :!:

I told him it was an interesting test, but a puddle of glue isn't the same as when it soaks into cane and bonds them together. I do believe epoxy is harder, and if a fast rod is what your designing it would be a good idea to use it but for my Leonard and Payne copys, soft glue that doesn't dry fully is fine with me, and alot tougher than hide glue ;) CJ
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